Mull's chief town, Tobermory, at the northern tip of the islands, is easily the most attractive fishing port on the west coast of Scotland, its clusters of brightly coloured houses and boats sheltering in a bay backed by a steep bluff. Founded in 1788 by the British Society for Encouraging Fisheries, it never really took off as a fishing port and only survived due to the steady influx of crofters evicted from other parts of the island during the Clearances. With a population of more than 800, it is, without doubt, the capital of Mull, and if tourists are staying any length of time on the island they are bound to end up here, not least because it has a Womble named after it. The harbour's shops are good for browsing, and tourists can pay a visit to the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust, run by a welcoming bunch of enthusiasts. The small office has lots of information on how to identify marine mammals, and on recent sightings. They're very child-friendly, too, and will keep kids amused for an hour or so with computer marine games, word searches and a bit of artwork. Sea Life Surveys (tel 01688/302787, www.sealifesurveys.co.uk), who offer a variety of whale- and dolphin-watching tours, are run from the same office.