The top of La Soufrière is like another planet. It is covered in small plants and large rock formations of improbable shape. The smell of sulfur is everywhere. At this first crater, the steam rose peacefully, sometimes drifting over the plain and obscuring our first view of the entire top of La Soufrière. We explored the area and then walked up a little further to the more active vent. Steam rushed out under great pressure and with a loud roar, making talking difficult. Depending on where the wind blew the steam, we could see all around the island or we could see hardly a hundred meters. We walked to the opposite side of the crest and found a spot where we were in the sun. We had brought a Torment d'Amore from Les Saintes for each of us and some trail mix, which we washed down with water. We explored the bizarre rock formations, climbing some or just walking and looking, until the clouds began to drift in again and cover the peak. We began the climb down, quickly descending below the clouds and into the sun. As we began our circumnavigation of the volcano, we admired the views of Basse Terre, the Caribbean, and the islands of Les Saintes that were spread out below us.