The town of QUIBERON itself centres on a miniature golf course surrounded by bars, pizzerias and some surprisingly good clothes and antique shops. The cafés by the long bathing beach are the most enjoyable, along with the old-fashioned Café du Marché next to the PTT. Port-Maria , the fishing harbour and gare maritime for the islands of Belle-Île, Houat and Hoëdic , is the most active part of town and has the best concentration of hotels and restaurants. Port-Maria was once famous for its sardines, canned locally, but those days are long gone. In July and August, the special Tire Bouchon train links Quiberon's gare SNCF , which is a short way above the town proper, with Auray. There are also buses right to the gare maritime from Vannes (#23 and #24) and Auray (#24) via Carnac. The tourist office at 14 rue de Verdun (July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 9.30am-noon & 3-7pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm; tel 02.97.50.07.84, www.quiberon.com ), downhill and left from the gare SNCF, has an illuminated map outside that purports to monitor exactly which hotels are full, hour by hour.