This narrow 70-mile-long channel across the southernmost tip of Greenland is breathtakingly dramatic. Huge glaciers tumble down towards the rugged coast from the Greenland Ice Cap – exactly the kind of scene that inspired one Greenlandic poet to declare: ‘I get dizzy of all this beauty’. A thousand years ago, just north of here at Narsarsuaq, Eric the Red established his farm amid 6,000-foot mountains and glaciers.