Formerly the centre of one of the world’s two superpowers, Moscow (Moskva) is still reeling from the rapid pace of change that the past decade has wrought. Located in the centre of the East-European plain, with its major part occupying the valley of the Moskva River, it is a brash city with pockets of ostentatious new-found (and often ill-gotten) wealth surrounded by the vast majority struggling to live on their meagre salaries or pensions. The spiritual, political and economic capital of the world’s largest country, Moscow is quite different from the rest of the Russian Federation and the worst ravages of industrial decline have bypassed the city, as it is more focused on the administrative and service sectors. It is a magnet, not only for the entrepreneurs of the new Russia but also for some of the most destitute from the far reaches of the country.