Miltenberg has a wonderfully photogenic setting, nestling tightly below wooded hills on a bend of the Main, 45km upstream from Aschaffenburg. Although its population has never numbered more than a few thousand, the Altstadt stretches for over 2.5km, its boundaries marked by two fourteenth-century gateways, the Würzburger Tor to the east and the Mainzer Tor to the west. Much of the area in between consists of a single street, Hauptstrasse, which is lined with the half-timbered buildings so characteristic of central Germany, as well as others of stone. One of the finest examples of the former is the Gasthaus Zum Riesen at no. 97, an inn with an uninterrupted tradition since the fifteenth century which assumed its present aspect at the end of the following century. A little further west, at no. 137, is the Altes Rathaus , a fourteenth-century Gothic sandstone building which was originally the municipal weigh house. About halfway along its length, Hauptstrasse widens out to the south to form the triangular Marktplatz , which has a Renaissance fountain, the Marktbrunnen , and some of the finest houses, notably the Weinhaus , which is distinguished by a beautiful two-storey oriel, and the Alte Amtskellerei directly opposite. The latter now houses the Museum der Stadt Miltenberg (May-Oct Tues-Sun 11am-5pm; Nov-March Wed-Sun 11am-4pm; DM4/?2), which contains a distinguished collection of artefacts from the Roman period, notably an enigmatic five-metre-high monolith, the Toutonenstein . There's also a Jewish section: Miltenberg still preserves its tiny medieval synagogue, but it is marooned in the backyard of the Kalt-Loch brewery and seldom accessible to the public. Just to the north of the square is the Stadtpfarrkirche St Jakobus , a Gothic church whose external appearance was sharply modified by the addition of two Neoclassical sandstone towers in the 1830s. Inside are a fifteenth-century relief of the Adoration of the Magi and a huge sixteenth-century crucifix. On its other side, Marktplatz slopes uphill to the outer defensive system of the Mildenburg (May-Oct Tues-Sun 11am-5.30pm; DM2/?1), the feudal frontier castle of the Mainz archbishops on the hill above. By its courtyard entrance is a late fourteenth-century residential building which was partially remodelled in Renaissance style a couple of hundred years later. Higher up is the keep, which formed part of the original fortress erected around 1200. It can be ascended for a grandstand view over the town and its surroundings.