HÓRA (or Kythira Town), a steep 2km haul above Kapsáli, has a dramatic site, its Cycladic-style houses tiered on the ridge leading to the Venetian castle . Access to the fortress is up a modern pathway, but, to the right of this, the original narrow tunnel entrance is still usable. Within the walls, most of the buildings are in ruins, except the paired churches of Panayía Myrtidhiótissa and the smaller Panayía Orfáni (these were Catholic and Orthodox respectively, under the Venetian occupation), and the office of the archives of Kythira opposite. There are spectacular views down to Kapsáli and out to sea to the striking chunk of inaccessible islet known as Avgó (Egg), legendary birthplace of Aphrodite. On the cliffs grow the yellow-flowered everlasting ( sempreviva ), used locally for making small dried flower arrangements. Below the castle are both the remains of older Byzantine walls and, in Mésa Vouryó, numerous well-signed but securely locked Byzantine churches. A small museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free) at the junction of the Hóra-Kapsáli road, houses modest remnants (labelled only in Greek) of the island's numerous occupiers, in particular Minoan finds from excavations at Paleópoli and an Archaic stone lion, as well as a telling selection of gravestones from the English cemetery. The Stavros bookshop, almost opposite, sells a book of walks (mainly in the southern half of the island; a walk book in German has more complete coverage). Compared with Kapsáli, Hóra stays quiet and many places are closed out of season. Kythira Travel (tel 07360/31 390) are agents for the hydrofoils. Other facilities include a couple of banks , a post office and a branch of Panayiotis vehicle rental (tel 07360/31 004). A few tavernas open in summer, of which Zorba is by far the best, but the climb from Kapsáli discourages the crowds. A popular bar is Mercato , which stays open in the winter and also has exhibitions of local art. Accommodation is slightly easier to find than in Kapsáli. Options include the Castello Studios (tel 07360/31 069; 43-58), and the Hotel Margarita (tel 07360/31 711, fax 31 325; 73 and upwards) in a beautiful 1840s house, with air conditioning and TV in the rooms. The Xenonas Keiti/Keti/Kaiti (tel 07360/31 318; April-Oct; 73 and upwards) has non-smoking rooms in a large 240-year-old characterful house which has seen General Metaxas and George Papandreou as visitors. At MANITOHÓRI , 2km further inland, is the more basic Pension Kythera .