Surely Southwest Cay has always been serenely fixed in time. Yet Glover's Reef changes a little bit every day, especially as it attracts more visitors. On the other side of the narrow channel that divides Southwest Cay, for instance, a luxury resort has sprung up. Hurricanes Iris and Mitch blew all the sand off Southwest Cay five years ago, although you'd never guess it from our view. Incredibly enough, our Vancouver-based host, Island Expeditions - one of the most environmentally conscientious tour operators in the Caribbean - spent two weeks putting the storm-blown sand back into place, one wheelbarrow fullat a time.