For beautiful lonely beaches and superb bushwalking, one of the best places in Tasmania is Bruny Island. Almost two distinct islands joined by a narrow isthmus (where you can sometimes see Little penguins from a specially constructed viewing platform), it’s roughly 71km from end to end and has a population of only four hundred. The cost of taking a car across on the ferry deters casual visitors, so the island is never very full. The ferry from Kettering goes to substantially rural North Bruny, although most of the settlements, and places to stay and eat, are on South Bruny – the more scenic half, with its state forests and reserves. At the northern end of the isthmus, a small monument to Truganini (the “last” Tasmanian Aborigine, who was born here) stands atop the tallest sand dune (reached by a high wooden stairway), offering superb views of the southern part of the island, where three former reserves have been turned into South Bruny National Park. You can see the Fluted Cape State Reserve region to the east of Adventure Bay; here, a steep climb to the top of the Cape (2hr 30min return) offers still better views. The Labillardiere State Reserve area occupies the western “hook” of South Bruny Island; a winding, bumpy road leads to the Cape Bruny Lighthouse, built in 1836 and manned until 1996 (guided tours $10; bookings tel 03/6298 3114) – beyond this a badly-signposted seven-hour walking trail explores the peninsula. East of the hook, across Cloudy Bay is the final chunk of the national park. You can do a spot of bushcamping here by the beach (pit toilet only, no water), where there’s great surfing, and at Neck Beach about 1.5km from the isthmus viewing point (pit toilet, water, shelter with barbecue). The ferry from Kettering sails at least nine times daily (7.15am–6.30pm, later on Fri; tel 03/6233 5363 for exact times, or consult Friday’s Mercury in Hobart; $18 per car return, $23 Fri afternoon, Sat & Sun; bikes $3; foot passengers free; 15min). The Bruny D’Entrecasteaux Visitor Centre at the Kettering ferry terminal (daily 9am–5pm, may be closed Mon & Tues July–Oct; tel 03/6267 4494) books accommodation on the island, much of which is in self-catering cottages and must be arranged in advance. The centre can also supply you with Bruny Island information, including a free map. You’ll need a car to get around: there’s no transport – and no town – at Roberts Point, where the ferry docks on the north of the island. Renting a bike in Hobart or seeing the island on foot are the only alternatives. Hobart Coaches (tel 03/6234 4077) operates services from Hobart to Kettering that connect with a couple of the ferries, or you could come on the excellent small group day-tour from Hobart with Bruny Island Ventures ($95; book through Tiger Line tel 03/6231 2200). The main settlement on North Bruny is DENNES POINT at the northern extreme of the island, which has a general store and a jetty, and where you can stay at Kelly’s Lookout, an upmarket holiday unit on Bull Bay Road. En route, in the secluded settlement of Barnes Bay, pretty Shelter Cove belies its former role as the first “Black station”, a forced resettlement of Aboriginal people, established in 1830. Camel Tracks Tasmania, based at Barnes Bay, offers camel treks around the island (daily on demand for 2hr 30min rides, $45 plus morning tea; book for 7hr rides, $100 including gourmet lunch; tel 03/6260 6335). On South Bruny, ADVENTURE BAY is the main centre on the east coast; its waters are safe for swimming, and there’s a general store and the Bligh Museum of Pacific Discovery (daily 10am–3pm; $3). Bruny Island has always been linked with early explorers, for whom it provided a safe refuge after the arduous journey across the Southern Ocean, and the museum displays maps, documents, paintings and artefacts relating to landings there. ALONNAH, Bruny’s main settlement, is on the D’Entrecasteaux Channel coast. As well as a general store here, you’ll find the Hotel Bruny, on Bruny Main Road, which also does good-value counter meals (no meals Sun), and has the island’s only bottle shop. From Lunnawanna, it’s a scenic drive south to Cloudy Bay, with its great sweep of surf beach; there’s secluded accommodation here in the self-catering beachfront Cloudy Bay Cabin, powered by solar energy and gas.