Kuching, capital of the Malaysian state of Sarawak on the island of Borneo, is a bustling, diverse city of old colonial buildings and modern towers. Along its Sarawak River waterfront are food vendors, shophouses selling handicrafts and an esplanade with views of 19th-century landmarks: The Astana, former palace of the White Rajahs, and Fort Margherita, built to thwart pirates.