West Michigan's largest city will surprise you with its cosmopolitan flair, its museums and gardens - and the fact that in 20 minutes or less from anywhere inside its limits, you can playgolf, canoe a river, hike a trail - away from it all. Here's a city on a cultural roll. In the past few years, Grand Rapids has invested $200 million incultural, recreational and sports facilities. When it's not at the theater or playing ball, GrandRapids celebrates with festivals. Its shopping is unparalleled. Its dining is varied and superb. If you think a river runs through that other place, here the Grand River runs through the heart ofdowntown. With its system of fish ladders to promote the salmon spawn, Grand Rapids is one offew cities in the world where anglers compete for fishing holes by the hundreds, surrounded bythe glass and steel towers of a city humming with commerce.