If you only have a couple of days to see Virginia, Charlottesville, seventy miles west of Richmond, should be near the top of your itinerary. Abounding in history, and holding some of the finest examples of early American architecture, it is at once small enough to feel comfortable in and large enough to have good restaurants and nightspots. Its compact, low-rise center is crisscrossed by magnolia-shaded streets, and makes a fine area to amble around, particularly in the six pedestrianized blocks of Main Street, site of the nightly town promenade. However pleasant the town, the compelling attraction is the legacy of Thomas Jefferson, whose home and final resting place, Monticello, stands atop a hill just east of town, overlooking the beautifully landscaped Neoclassical campus of the University of Virginia.