Viviers is a medieval village that has withstood the ravages of architectural progress.The old part of the village, said to be one of the best preserved in France, rises sharply up a very steep hillside.The steep grade likely made the upper town easier to defend when it was built several hundred years ago. But the difficulty of ascending the cobblestone-lined lanes caused about half our walking party of 70 to give it up before we reached the top, where fortress walls once protected a monastic order. Our guide was not aware of any attacking force successfully climbing almost straight up 200 or so feet from the side facing the river to the plateau's top and breaching the stone walls. A spectacular view of the village's red tile roofs, the Rhone and the valley awaits those who make the climb to the summit. Also awaiting is the Cathedral of St. Vincent, which was consecrated in 1119 and still serves residents of the upper village. With dusk falling by the time we reached it, the Gothic and Romanesque building was closed. Some of the stucco-like buildings of the upper town beneath have been occupied since the 15th Century. A few sport TV satellite dishes from their rooftops. Living in those cramped, hillside quarters had no appeal to us. The steep, twisting streets built for passage in medieval times are 8 or so feet wide. The buildings are 3 and 4 stories high, contain no air conditioning and few modern conveniences. There are no gardens or even grass, only occasional window boxes of the ever-present, red geraniums. Just a view of your neighbors' gray walls and windows left open to catch a cooling breeze. The contrasts in height and the brightness of the red tile roofs made for a picturesque sight. But I thought that living there would only be a step or two above living in Folsum Prison. The well-worn cobblestones on the steep streets must be treacherous in times of snow or ice. But the lower town, built on the river plain in more modern times, looks to be quite livable for those who like very small towns.